A Jewish community in Brazil's Amazon region, descended from Moroccan families who migrated 200 years ago, has managed to preserve traditional Moroccan cuisine. The community, mainly residing in the cities of Belem and Manaus, continues to pass down recipes from generation to generation, despite adapting them to local ingredients. These adapted dishes include traditional Moroccan favorites such as couscous and "Dafina".
The community's roots date back to the 19th century when Jewish families from Morocco, mostly from Tangier and Tetouan, migrated to Brazil via the Atlantic Ocean. They were later joined by other families, who found it difficult to obtain the basic ingredients used in their traditional dishes. As a result, they adjusted their recipes to incorporate local products while maintaining their culinary traditions and adhering to Jewish dietary rules.
In Belem and Manaus, Moroccan couscous remains a staple dish served on Sundays. However, some families have replaced semolina with local flour, while others serve it with "farofa", a Brazilian dish made from toasted cassava. The traditional Moroccan dish "Dafina", typically prepared on Saturdays, has also undergone changes, with some families substituting chickpeas with rice and adding local ingredients like tamarind and date syrup.
The community's adaptations have not been limited to Moroccan dishes; they have also modified local Amazonian recipes to conform to their dietary rules. For example, they replaced shrimp with fish in the traditional Amazonian soup "tacacá", which is usually made with fermented cassava. Additionally, they serve açaí, a popular Amazonian fruit, with marinated fish and couscous.
To preserve their culinary heritage, Estier Siroya Wail, a chef from the community, collected family recipes in Belem. She noted that some local ingredients had replaced traditional Moroccan ones, such as using "orocom" seeds instead of paprika and green lemons instead of yellow lemons.
In 2017, Estier Wail visited Morocco with her mother, where she rediscovered flavors that reminded her of her childhood in Brazil. This experience motivated her to conduct interviews with about 40 community chefs to document their family recipes, including "Dafina" and the traditional Moroccan dish "Escabeche", which originated in Tangier.
The community's efforts to preserve their culinary traditions serve as a testament to the resilience of their cultural heritage. Despite being separated from their ancestral homeland for centuries, they have managed to maintain a strong connection to their roots through their food.
Key points
- The Jewish community in Brazil's Amazon region has preserved traditional Moroccan cuisine for 200 years.
- The community has adapted Moroccan recipes to incorporate local Amazonian ingredients.
- A chef has documented community recipes to preserve their culinary heritage.
