In Burkina Faso, the traditional Faso Dan Fani cloth is experiencing a resurgence, driven by the country's women weavers who are adapting to new quality requirements and seeking better returns for their work. The industry has seen significant improvements in weaving techniques, the quality of yarn, and the growth of organic cotton. Sidonie Sawadogo, a 50-year-old weaver and influential member of the National Federation of Women Weavers of Burkina Faso (FENATI-BF), has seen the industry evolve over the years. She attributes the change to market pressures, better techniques, and the quality of the yarn.
Sawadogo, who learned to weave in the 2000s, has made it her main occupation and opened a shop in Ouaga 2000, a commercial and diplomatic district of the capital. She sells her products directly to customers, with prices ranging from CFA 6,000 (about US$10) to CFA 20,000 (about US$35), depending on the quality and design. Denise Kafando, another weaver, has been weaving since 1986 and believes that weaving techniques and the quality of the cloth have improved. She attributes some of this progress to the "buy local" policy, which has stimulated demand in Burkina Faso and beyond.
However, counterfeiting threatens the industry, with counterfeit yarn and cloth continuing to reach the local market despite measures taken by the ministry responsible for trade. The Mobile Brigade for Economic Control and Fraud Prevention (BMCRF) has carried out inspections, seizing 319 pieces of counterfeit Faso Dan Fani cloth, 174 lots of cloth, and over 10,160 spools of imported weaving yarn. A fine of CFA 3,100,000 was also imposed, payable to the public treasury. Customs officials have also intercepted 31,200 counterfeit cloths imitating Koko Donda and Faso Dan Fani at Dakola, on the border with Ghana.
The counterfeit products sell for much less than quality local cloth, attracting price-conscious consumers but also exposing them to lower-quality goods. Kafando believes that this unfair competition severely disadvantages local producers, and questions the products' quality and composition. Pauline Bafiogo, the current president of FENATI-BF, says that the imported yarn is not manufactured in Ghana but passes through the country before entering the Burkinabè market. According to Bafiogo, the yarn originates in China.
The price of locally produced Faso Dan Fani presents another challenge, with Kafando believing that it must be considered alongside the work required to produce a handwoven cloth. The promotion of "buy local", championed by Burkina Faso's president, Captain Ibrahim Traoré, has helped expand the market, with Faso Dan Fani being incorporated into dress codes for courts, schools, universities, and the military. This has increased orders and opened new opportunities for producers.
Demand for Faso Dan Fani now extends beyond Burkina Faso's borders, with Kafando receiving orders from Senegal and Ghana. She sees this as evidence of growing interest in the skills of Burkinabè women weavers. Internationally, people appreciate the cloth more than they do at home, according to Kafando. The use of locally produced yarn, particularly from FILSAH, is increasing among weavers.
While weavers increasingly use locally produced yarn, organic cotton remains largely absent from their workshops. However, in Koudougou, the Organic Cotton Ginning Company (SECOBIO-SA) processes certified fibre, most of which is exported. According to Milogo Caro, SECOBIO-SA's managing director, 99% of the fibre is exported. The growth of organic cotton and improvements in weaving techniques are expected to further drive the industry's growth.
Key points
- The industry faces challenges from counterfeiting and competition from cheaper, lower-quality imports.
- Women weavers are adapting to new quality requirements and seeking better returns for their work.
- The promotion of "buy local" has helped expand the market for Faso Dan Fani.
