The writer of this article is currently experiencing emotional fragility, having recently attended two friends' funerals and supporting two others battling cancer. This tumultuous period has led them to research and identify with "survivor's guilt," a form of PTSD. The writer recalls the sudden passing of surfers Dean Gierke and Byron Gray, which has left a lasting impact on their psyche. They express empathy for friends in full-time pastoral positions who deal with deep grief daily.
The writer recently lost a friend, Brian Heathcote, who passed away on October 26, 2026, at the age of 72. Brian was an avid surfer, often surfing at Nahoon Reef, a popular spot for locals. The writer fondly remembers Brian's joyful surfing experiences, where he would often yodel with excitement at the backline of waves. However, one particular incident stands out, where a dolphin unexpectedly launched out of the wave and collided with Brian, causing him significant injuries.
The incident involving the dolphin and Brian was a remarkable and rare occurrence. With adult dolphins weighing between 150 and 650kg and capable of swimming at speeds of up to 60km/h, the impact would have been substantial. In this case, the dolphin's estimated mass and velocity resulted in a considerable force equivalent to a car crash. Brian suffered three broken ribs, and his surfboard was smashed in half.
Following the dolphin incident, Brian's ordeal continued as he encountered a hissing puffadder snake while retrieving his car keys. Despite these challenges, Brian remained steadfast in his faith, often referencing the Scripture: "Truly I tell you, today you will be with me in paradise." The writer shares this belief, finding comfort in the idea that Brian is now in a better place.
The writer reflects on the harsh realities of surfing at Nahoon Reef, which, despite its beauty, is not a paradise. The reef's powerful waves bring joy to local surfers but also pose risks, as evident in Brian's experience. For those invested in surfing at exotic locations like Nias, Mentawais, or Sumbawa, the idea of a perfect surfing paradise is attractive.
The writer offers practical advice for navigating emotional challenges, including having faith, working hard, exercising, eating well, helping others, finding humor, and accepting support from friends. They emphasize the importance of living intentionally and finding solace in everyday activities, such as surfing, which some refer to as "saltwater therapy."
As the writer prepares to go surfing, they reflect on the significance of this activity in their life. With plans to surf the next day, they seem to find comfort in the ocean's therapeutic effects. The writer concludes by sharing inspirational quotes from Leo Buscaglia and Jordan Peterson, highlighting the importance of resilience and living in the present.
Key points
- The writer finds solace in faith, friendship, and surfing after experiencing recent losses.
