In a garment factory in Bangladesh, a young woman known as S. works long hours for a meager $144 a month, supporting her son and mother. She toils in an "oppressively hot" environment, often unable to leave her workstation to drink water, and has fainted three times this year. S. is not alone; many workers in Asian factories making clothes for American Eagle, Levi's, and other brands share similar stories of struggle.
The factory where S. works is run by Artistic Garment Industries, which confirmed making clothes for American Eagle. Despite claims of a robust complaints system, workers like S. fear speaking out, worried about losing their jobs or being blacklisted. American Eagle says it's committed to protecting workers' health, safety, and rights, but the reality on the ground tells a different story.
NPR interviewed around 20 workers in Bangladesh and Pakistan, who all requested anonymity, fearing retribution. They described working in sweltering conditions, with production targets that are unreasonably high, and wages that are barely enough to survive. Jason Judd, executive director of the Global Labor Institute, notes that extreme heat caused by climate change exacerbates the problem, making workplaces and homes even hotter.
The issue of fast fashion and garment worker exploitation is complex, with brands demanding enormous volumes of clothes on tight deadlines and thin profit margins. Cara Schulte, a researcher at Climate Rights International, says workers are vulnerable to heat because they're clustered in countries like Bangladesh and Pakistan, which are warming faster than the global average.
H&M, one of the brands identified by workers, says it prioritizes fair payment to suppliers and excludes labor costs from price negotiations to ensure worker wages aren't driven down. However, Schulte argues that garment workers are compelled to risk their health to survive, forced into poverty by circumstances beyond their control.
For workers like R., who stitches 150 pieces of fabric per hour at a garment factory in Dhaka, the struggle is real. She faces harassment if she's short by even a single piece and is considered old for a garment worker at around 40. R.'s story echoes those of many workers who feel trapped in a system that prioritizes profit over people.
As consumers, it's essential to acknowledge the unseen workers behind the clothes we wear. The stories of S., R., and many others highlight the need for greater transparency and accountability in the fast fashion industry. Brands must prioritize workers' rights and well-being, ensuring fair wages, safe working conditions, and a voice for those who make our clothes.
Key points
- Workers in Asian garment factories making clothes for American Eagle, Levi's, and other brands face low wages, high production targets, and sweltering working conditions.
