MaXhosa, a South African fashion brand founded 16 years ago by Laduma Ngxokolo, has made a significant milestone in the fashion world by staging its first-ever runway show at Paris Fashion Week (PFW). The show, which opened the PFW Spring/Summer 2027 season, marked a full-circle moment for the brand, as it was held at the same venue where MaXhosa first presented its collection in 2024. This achievement is a testament to the brand's perseverance and growth, from its early days of challenging Western-European ideals in the fashion industry to becoming a globally acclaimed brand.
The Izihlwele Zivumile collection, which translates to "the ancestors have agreed" or "the ancestors have co-signed," reflects on MaXhosa's journey over the past 16 years. The collection features a cleaner, more contemporary aesthetic with a strong monochrome direction, focusing on silhouette, textiles, construction, and artistry. The show also incorporated a strong African creative influence, with a musical performance by South African multi-award-winning artist Sjava, set design by Xander Ferreira, and photography by Chris Saunders.
The runway show was a celebration of heritage, perseverance, and the idea that when you know who you are, you can take that identity anywhere in the world. Ngxokolo stated that the collection is about arriving at a moment that feels bigger than oneself, reflecting the brand's journey of persistence, rejection, and growth. The show transformed the venue from a place of introduction into one of arrival and progression, showcasing MaXhosa's signature knitwear fabrication in a refined and considered manner.
MaXhosa's achievement has opened doors for other African designers to think globally while remaining true to their heritage locally. The brand's success has shown that African design can exist within the global luxury conversation while still being deeply rooted in its cultural context. Ngxokolo emphasized that Africa is not a category or an aesthetic and that MaXhosa aims to present itself as a global luxury house from Africa, not simply as an African brand participating in global fashion.
The collection featured MaXhosa's signature knit fabrication, which is at the heart of the brand's heritage. For this collection, the brand pushed the language of knitwear while allowing it to feel more refined and considered. Ngxokolo highlighted that knitwear is where MaXhosa always starts, and it has been a crucial element in the brand's designs.
Ngxokolo shared that putting together a runway show of this scale at PFW was a complex task, with many moving parts to manage, including developing the collection, producing garments, casting, fittings, logistics, and coordinating a team across different countries. However, the brand's strong team and infrastructure made it possible to meet the moment and maintain the integrity of the creative vision.
Ngxokolo reflected on the lessons learned in building MaXhosa into a global African fashion brand, emphasizing the importance of staying rooted while remaining open to the world. He stressed that building a global house takes patience and that consistency, learning, and pushing forward are essential to achieving success. MaXhosa's achievement serves as a testament to the power of staying true to one's heritage while embracing global opportunities.
Key points
- MaXhosa becomes the first South African fashion house to show on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar.
- The Izihlwele Zivumile collection reflects MaXhosa's 16-year journey and features a strong African creative influence.
- The brand's success has paved the way for other African designers to think globally while staying true to their heritage.
