South African brand MaXhosa Africa made its debut at Paris Women's Fashion Week on Monday, showcasing a vibrant knitwear collection that celebrates African crafts and unity. The collection, which featured 54 looks, was a culmination of founder Laduma Ngxokolo's 16-year journey to bring African fashion to the world's most prestigious fashion calendar. Ngxokolo's designs are known for their bold and colorful aesthetic, which reflects the rich cultural heritage of Africa.
The collection was a celebration of African unity, with one wool dress featuring knitted tassels emblazoned with the names of the continent's countries. Another black-and-grey outfit had a huge outline of Africa at the front, with other areas of the world on the back and sleeves, in a nod to a recent re-sizing of the United Nation's official map to better reflect the true size of the landmass. This design element was a bold statement about the importance of Africa on the global stage.
MaXhosa Africa was founded in 2010 by Ngxokolo, who is proud to say that 90% of his products are produced in-house. The brand now employs around 300 people, runs eight stores, and produces all of its knitwear from its two factories in Johannesburg and East London. Ngxokolo's commitment to local production and job creation has made MaXhosa Africa a leader in the South African fashion industry.
The catwalk show at the South African ambassador's residence featured a live performance from Afro-soul singer Sjava, with eyewear and accessories from upcycled waste made by the Kenyan artist Cyrus Kabiru. The event was attended by fashion industry professionals and celebrities, including fans of the brand like Michelle Obama and Beyonce. Ngxokolo was visibly emotional as he took to the stage to acknowledge the audience at the end of the show.
Ngxokolo's achievement is a rare honour for an African designer, as very few have been afforded spots on the Paris Fashion Week calendar. The federation has been gradually working to diversify its roster of brands, inviting global up-and-coming labels to join the French industry behemoths. Cameroonian designer Imane Ayissi made history in January 2020 when he became the first sub-Saharan African designer on the official Haute Couture calendar.
Ngxokolo believes that there is still much work to be done to promote African fashion globally. "We feel that we are still under-represented as the African continent, and more platforms can be done (offered)," he said. However, he also emphasized the importance of professionalism and high standards in the fashion industry. "I am for professionalism. I am for good quality standards. I am for high standards in everything that we touch," he added.
The Paris Fashion Week calendar for 2027 Spring-Summer features a total of 67 catwalk shows, with dozens of other brands set to show their designs in private viewings and events around the French capital. Industry big beasts Christian Dior and Saint Laurent will send their new collections out on Tuesday. The event is a major milestone for MaXhosa Africa, and Ngxokolo is likely to be watched closely by industry insiders in the years to come.
Key points
- MaXhosa Africa's debut at Paris Women's Fashion Week marks a significant milestone for African fashion.
- The brand's collection celebrates African unity and features bold and colorful knitwear designs.
- Founder Laduma Ngxokolo has been working to promote African fashion globally for 16 years.