Greenpeace Africa, an independent environmental campaigning organisation, has urged the Ghanaian government to ban the importation of "dead waste" textiles into the country. According to Greenpeace, these textiles are clothing that cannot be reused, repurposed, or resold. The call follows a brand audit of 201 discarded garments collected from James Town Beach, Kantamanto Market, and Agbogbloshie in Accra.
The audit identified labels of global fashion brands, including H&M, Primark, Marks & Spencer (M&S), and Next, as major contributors to Ghana's textile waste. Greenpeace said the growing volume of discarded clothing in Accra highlighted the need for action both at the source of production and at Ghana's borders. The organisation presented the audit findings in Accra as part of its campaign on "waste colonialism" and the environmental and economic effects of the global fast-fashion industry.
Greenpeace's Project Lead for the Plastics Project and Fast Fashion, Ms Hellen Kahaso Dena, said the organisation's investigations across Accra showed that textile waste was accumulating at several locations. She cited Kantamanto Market, James Town Beach, and Agbogbloshie as areas of concern. According to Ms Dena, the problem needed to be addressed by reducing excessive production by global fashion companies and ensuring that only clothing capable of being reused entered Ghana.
Ms Dena stated that traders at Kantamanto estimated that about 40 per cent of clothing entering the market was waste, meaning it could not be effectively reused or resold. While Greenpeace was not calling for a complete ban on second-hand clothing imports, as the trade provided livelihoods for many Ghanaians, it could also not be left unchecked. The organisation urged the government to establish standards to ensure that imported second-hand clothing was of sufficient quality for reuse.
Greenpeace also expressed concern about plastic and microplastic pollution arising from synthetic fibres used in many garments. According to Mr Sam Quashie-Idun, Head of Investigations at Greenpeace Africa, the team's 2024 report, "Fast Fashion, Slow Poison", found that 89 per cent of 164 discarded garments tested at three dumpsites in the Greater Accra Region contained synthetic fibres. An earlier investigation into the burning of textile waste as fuel at three public washhouses in Old Fadama detected benzene, a known carcinogen.
As part of the campaign, Greenpeace and its partners presented a petition signed by more than 25,000 people to the Ministry of Trade, Agribusiness and Industry. The petition called for a ban on unusable textile waste, transparent grading and trading practices, stronger producer responsibility mechanisms, investment in Ghana's textile industry, and support for traditional craftsmanship, repair, and reuse. Greenpeace also unveiled a six-metre installation, "Fast Fashion, Lasting Damage", created from discarded garments by The Revival, an upcycling collective based at Kantamanto Market.
Greenpeace spokesperson from Sweden, Isabelle McAllister, called on fashion companies to remain responsible for their products even after they left their original markets. She emphasised that the quality of imported clothing needed to be better and that overproduction must be stopped. The organisation's campaign aims to address the environmental and economic impacts of the global fast-fashion industry on Ghana and promote sustainable practices.
Key points
- Greenpeace Africa urges the Ghanaian government to ban "dead waste" textile imports.
- The organisation cites environmental and economic concerns, including plastic and microplastic pollution.
- Greenpeace calls for stronger producer responsibility mechanisms and investment in Ghana's textile industry.
