The wine industry's reputational inertia allows brand owners to maintain sales despite underperformance, unless a high-profile scandal occurs. Unlike the food industry, wine buyers tend to stick with familiar brands, and it takes a significant issue to change their purchasing habits. This phenomenon was evident in the Austrian "anti-freeze" scandal of 1985, which led to an instant end to the country's wine exports. In contrast, the addition of a fake flavorant to Cape sauvignon blanc over 20 years ago had little long-term effect.
Inertia supports sales of familiar wines, even if they are underperforming, due to brand recognition and confirmation bias. Wine buyers tend to purchase what they know, without critically evaluating quality or consistency. Additionally, taste memory can make it difficult to recall exact nuances, making it challenging to discern a decline in wine quality. This inertia can lead to invisibility for consistently good wines, as they fail to generate excitement or attention.
Thelema, a Cape benchmark, has been producing high-quality wines for over 30 years under Gyles Webb's creation. The winery's genius in siting vineyards in Banhoek, Stellenbosch, led to the establishment of a new sub-region now home to prestigious properties like Tokara and Delaire Graff. Thelema's wines, including the Rabelais and chardonnays, remain immaculate, but risk being forgotten due to their consistency.
DeMorgenzon, another Cape wine icon, launched spectacularly 20 years ago with a Platter Five Star for its maiden vintage chenin blanc. The winery's chenin and chardonnay reserves have consistently been among the best in their classes, but this consistency may lead to invisibility. The entry-level DMZ chenin, produced entirely from estate fruit, offers exceptional value but often gets overlooked.
DeMorgenzon's Maestro white blend has undergone significant changes, with the white Rhône varieties now dominating the wine. The 2023 vintage hints at what the Maestro white will become when the 2024 vintage, featuring roussanne, marsanne, and grenache blanc, hits the market. However, the burden of the past may weigh down the wine, potentially alienating fans of the older style.
The issue of perception inertia affects not only DeMorgenzon but also other Cape wine icons. As a result, exceptional wines may remain underappreciated, and changes to wine styles may go unnoticed. The industry's focus on new and trendy wines can lead to established wines being overlooked, despite their continued quality and value.
Ultimately, the consistency of Cape wine icons like Thelema and DeMorgenzon risks making them invisible in a market driven by novelty and trend. While their wines remain of high quality, they may struggle to generate excitement or attention, allowing newer, trendier wines to take center stage.
Key points
- Cape wine icons risk being forgotten due to consistency and reputational inertia.
- Inertia supports sales of familiar wines, even if they are underperforming.
- Established wines may struggle to generate excitement or attention in a market driven by novelty and trend.
