As World Cotton Day approaches on 7 October, Africa has an opportunity to consider how its cotton industry can contribute more to agricultural development, employment and economic growth. The continent's cotton industry has significant potential to support agricultural development, employment and economic growth. However, the opportunity extends far beyond producing and exporting raw cotton. Building a stronger, more resilient sector requires attention to the entire value chain – from farmers and ginneries through to spinning, textile manufacturing, clothing and, ultimately, consumers.
A strong cotton value chain starts with farmers who can produce consistently, sustainably and profitably. Farmer development must therefore go beyond access to seed and markets. Training, mentorship, technical support and knowledge-sharing can strengthen both production and business management. This approach has been successful in South Africa, where cotton farmer Frans Malela has increased his yields through good agricultural practices, including crop rotation, soil management, integrated pest management, good harvesting practices and field hygiene.
Malela's story shows how farmer development can improve productivity and fibre quality while spreading knowledge and creating employment within farming communities. He began farming in 1984 on four hectares while working full-time in Johannesburg and later expanded his operation to more than 200 hectares. His practices have increased his yields from approximately 800 kg of seed cotton per hectare to 1.2 tonnes, reaching an exceptional three tonnes per hectare in 2021/22. Malela also shares his experience through farmers' days, demonstrations and research trials.
Sustainability and fibre quality go hand in hand. Good agricultural practices are fundamental to producing consistent, high-quality fibre. Cotton fibre characteristics such as length, strength and micronaire directly influence spinning performance and fabric quality. Production, harvesting, storage and ginning practices therefore affect the value of cotton lint. The South African Cotton Standard (ZACS) provides a practical framework for responsible production, bringing together farm management, environmental stewardship, people and economic viability.
ZACS shows how sustainability principles can be translated into a structured, measurable process. The standard rests on four pillars – Management, Environment, People and Socio-economic – covering continuous improvement, water stewardship, soil health, responsible crop protection, labour practices, worker protection, economic viability and resilience. Participants complete a self-assessment, followed by an internal review and a farm or ginnery visit. External verification takes place before certification, providing a mechanism to monitor performance and encourage improvement.
Another major opportunity lies in strengthening links between cotton production and downstream textile manufacturing. Producing more cotton does not automatically mean retaining more economic value within a country or the continent. When cotton is exported as lint and processed elsewhere, much of the value generated through spinning, textile production, garment manufacturing and retail is captured outside the producing country. The World Trade Organisation reported in March 2026 that around 98% of cotton from West and Central Africa is exported as raw fibre.
Capturing this opportunity requires investment in spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, finishing and garment manufacturing, alongside the infrastructure, skills, finance and markets needed to make these industries competitive. Regional cooperation could allow countries to develop complementary strengths, rather than each establishing every stage of the value chain independently. Value addition must also benefit farmers through stronger relationships between growers and downstream users, quality-based incentives, sustainability premiums, traceability and longer-term supply arrangements.
Key points
- A strong cotton value chain starts with farmers who can produce consistently, sustainably and profitably.
- Sustainability and fibre quality are interconnected and essential for a resilient cotton sector.
- Strengthening links between cotton production and downstream textile manufacturing can help retain more economic value within Africa.
